giovanna_roque's Favorites

The swift fell out of its nest and was successfully hand-reared and released. This was my first time handling a bird.

Notes to self:

• Needs an approximate equivalent of 20-25 crickets a day if no weighing device is available, but it is better to have "communication" with the bird and feed it until it stops begging.
• Wash hands before handling or feeding. The oils on your fingers can damage its feathers long-term.
• If lethargic with low body temperature-- if no heating pad, hot water bottle on one side of the setup under towels.
• Zophobas, black soldier fly larva, houseflies.
• Better cricket nymphs than adults as the females' egg sacs are not digested.
• Replacers that are commonly advised in case of no food (e.g chicken egg), are heavy on the liver if not lethal. It might be better to let it starve for one day than risk replacers as the nestlings are adapted for this.
• Won't need more than a few drops of water at a time (after every feeding) unless left in hotter weather. Will shake its head when it has had enough.
• Begging is tricky with swifts, some need to be forcefed until fledging. In an active bird the begging still needs to be "triggered" by touching its beak or feeding it the first cricket. Nightwing was active (and smart?) enough to get my attention in early mornings by leaving his setup to get closer to me, doing a single loud "scream" (otherwise rarely heard), or flapping his wings.
• If the bird cannot be left under an open window it needs calcium and vitamin D3 supplements.
• Will need vitamin supplements if fed defrosted insects. Live crickets are best, crush the head with the pincet and the legs at the joints to "half-kill" it. If the legs need to be removed, they will cleanly fall off when damaged as mentioned prior, rather than pulling them out.
• As soon as it has strength to hang on a vertical surface it is better to let it do so as much as possible.
• No need to practice early flying especially if the bird at this stage is afraid of open spaces, its instincts will kick in when it's ready.
• You should have a set up as closely as possible to a swift nest as on a horizontal surface the bird will inevitably stain its feathers with poop, that needs to be washed out ASAP, to minimise damage.
• Impossible to overfeed since it will persistently spit out food.
• Flight feathers should not be "wavy", split or damaged in any way. It may still be able to fly away but this will lower its survival chances.
• It's safe to let the swift "bond" with you as it is very instinct-driven, will not come back once released and its lifestyle will not allow it to get close to humans.
• They lose their appetite starting from 40th day for a temporary time as they're getting ready to fly and need to be forcefed.

Some fun behaviours observed:

• Scratched its head by raising its leg over its wing.
• Very reactive to movement past the 3rd week. Could be left to watch the sky, even watch vids on iphone screen.
• Affectionate? Liked touch under its beak and on its head.